I'm afraid that if you're hoping for a "magic cleaner" that will make it easy, there isn't one.
One way is to 3/4 fill an old
Pyrex bowl with hot water, and a generous squirt of washing up liquid.
Put the bowl in the microwave, and then run the microwave for 10 to 15 minutes on full power. When it's finished heating the water leave it to stand for 5 minutes, then clean the oven cavity with an old dishcloth or flannel rough but not abrasive after all the steam this will have generated, any baked on food deposits should have been softened and be easier to remove.
There are some microwave oven cleaning sprays, and liquids, as well as microfiber cloths for stainless steel on sale (we sell them in our shop and online). These are good, but you still need to use a bit of "elbow grease".
At the back of your microwave oven, and underneath there are some air vents, these should be cleaned regularly with a stiff dry brush. If the vents get blocked up, the electronics inside the microwave will start to overheat which often causes some expensive problems.
Sometimes, normally on catering (commercial) microwave ovens you'll find a filter under the door, or underneath the microwave, this must also be kept clean. If you can't find a filter and it's a domestic microwave then it doesn't need one.
Note if there is a filter it will not be inside the microwave.
There is a part inside the cavity of your microwave oven called a Waveguide cover that looks like a piece of cardboard. It's usually on the right hand "wall" or the "roof" of the cavity, this is the waveguide cover and it's made out of a material called mica.
This is where the microwaves enter the cavity, you must keep this clean, if it gets food splashes on it the will keep on cooking and burn a hole in it. This won't wreck the oven, but sometimes it can cause expensive faults.
A microwave oven is not like a car which needs regular servicing to keep it working properly.
There are no filters to change or clean, and no lubricants which need topping up or changing. Nothing needs to be adjusted or calibrated to prevent problems.
Our advice would normally be; "If it ain't broke don't fix it".
We often find that the worst thing you can do to a microwave that's working well is to move it, or start 'fiddling' with it.
The same applies with leakage tests; unless the door is badly damaged, has a hole on the metal mesh, or is not closing properly, then there's no need to have it tested.
Normally if a door is not closed sufficiently to prevent leakage, then the safety switches inside the oven will prevent it operating at all.